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Nearly everyone involved in the program works on the car and naturally we all get our own little projects to do. I really want to have experience in composites, so I immediately shotgunned this job when it needed to be done. What I’ve been working on is an intake for the radiator which is placed in one of the side pods. This intake covers most the parts of the radiator not used for cooling and directs the air in to those that do. Naturally the material of choice was carbon fibre.

So I’m doing this little write so that I remember how to do it for future work and for those who are interested in making some small carbon fibre pieces.

I started out with some hard modelling foam, which looked like this:

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How-To: Sleepy Shine

November 25, 2009

This a mixed post of a How-To and a little progress on my car.

Here’s a tutorial on how to control your headlight position a.k.a. sleepy-eye.

Its such an old mod but you never know who may want it.

I know that on cars like the RPS13 it’s much easier as you simply have to connect switches in between the relay, but after some research I discovered that this was the viable way of doing it on a Celica and with little modification it can be applied to any car. At the bottom of the post I have put a video of Drift Tengoku on how they recommend doing it on a RPS13 and might work on other cars as well.

This system works like the Drift Tengoku way, you have a switch to activate it and another switch to lift the lights up to your desired level, this does not control the headlights individually or make them go down. If you lift them too much you suck and have to turn it off and start again.

Disclaimer: Mess up and it’s your fault basically, follow the guide and it will work a T18 89-93 Celica.
This system will allow you to use both the stock setup and the sleepy-eye setup.
So, what you need:
Various tools to dismantle parts and solder the connections.
Minimum of 10A 12V 2 position on-off switch.
Minimum of 10A 12V DPDT relay.
Minimum 10A Self-returning double pole rocker or button switch.
A shit load of wire, roughly 20m. I would go for some good wire like 15A or above.
Then you can get things like shrink-wrap to make the connections look neat.
Even though the RTR (headlight motor) fuse is a 30A, I have had no problems with using a 10A relay, if you find one that can take higher amperage get that one for more reliability.

Here is a wiring diagram of the setup (it’s a little messy but you can see where each wire goes to from the relay):


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