How-To: Sleepy Shine

November 25, 2009


This a mixed post of a How-To and a little progress on my car.

Here’s a tutorial on how to control your headlight position a.k.a. sleepy-eye.

Its such an old mod but you never know who may want it.

I know that on cars like the RPS13 it’s much easier as you simply have to connect switches in between the relay, but after some research I discovered that this was the viable way of doing it on a Celica and with little modification it can be applied to any car. At the bottom of the post I have put a video of Drift Tengoku on how they recommend doing it on a RPS13 and might work on other cars as well.

This system works like the Drift Tengoku way, you have a switch to activate it and another switch to lift the lights up to your desired level, this does not control the headlights individually or make them go down. If you lift them too much you suck and have to turn it off and start again.

Disclaimer: Mess up and it’s your fault basically, follow the guide and it will work a T18 89-93 Celica.
This system will allow you to use both the stock setup and the sleepy-eye setup.
So, what you need:
Various tools to dismantle parts and solder the connections.
Minimum of 10A 12V 2 position on-off switch.
Minimum of 10A 12V DPDT relay.
Minimum 10A Self-returning double pole rocker or button switch.
A shit load of wire, roughly 20m. I would go for some good wire like 15A or above.
Then you can get things like shrink-wrap to make the connections look neat.
Even though the RTR (headlight motor) fuse is a 30A, I have had no problems with using a 10A relay, if you find one that can take higher amperage get that one for more reliability.

Here is a wiring diagram of the setup (it’s a little messy but you can see where each wire goes to from the relay):


I recommend you wired it up as you install it in the car, if you do it before you’re going to find it hard.
Wire the 8 wires to the relay first, then find a suitable place to mount it. I thought that the best place was on the driver’s side near the firewall. Five wires need to pass through the firewall and I thought the best place to drill a hole was on the driver’s side about 6cm above the clutch cable.

Before you pass all the cables through, I strongly suggest you label to cables if they’re the same colour. Otherwise it will be near impossible to tell which is which.

Once routed all the cables you can solder the switches and wires. To activate the system the two position switch is turn on, you can get power from any live source in the dash, and I used the cigarette lighter.

The system taps into the stock headlight motor wiring and the best place to do this is near the headlight. Remove the front bumper and disconnect the headlight motor plug.
In the wiring harness going to the headlight motor plug there will be a Green and White cable, snip this leaving some wire either side to work on and solder in your cables.

Now, it should be done. To test, turn on the ignition, turn on the 2 position switch. Then turn on your headlights and they should not come up. A little toggle of the rocker switch and the should come up.

I’ve done a few little things to the car as well. I mounted a fire extinguisher in just in case, you never know.

And I changed the radiator mount bolts to some nice hex ones, I know awesome.

Here is the video by Drift Tengoku, sorry there is not audio for some reason:

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