April 25, 2016
Rushed to get the wiring sorted and fit all the cooling, intake and fuel system in and I was finally able to start the engine after 5 months of being in pieces. Very relieved and happy there are no major issues, for now.
A couple of minor leaks here and there, and a lot of things need tiding up until I’m ready to actually move the car under its own power.
The main issue at the moment is with the Apexi PowerFC. I have made a mistake somewhere with the wiring (I’m running a Zenki ECU in a Kouki) and will need to recheck all the ECU pins. Unfortunately I can’t go very far without this working properly. With the 740cc injectors it was running stupidly rich on the standard ECU.
April 23, 2016
A bit overdue due to lack of time and I’ll keep it brief. Suspension system went back in after I remade some new brake lines; was then able to put the engine and transmission back in and begin remounting everything.
Rolled it out for the first time in about 5 months! You can also see my ‘new’ old Lexus GS300 as the BMW (feeling sorry for itself in the back) broke. Will fix that once the Great Danton is finished.
Plumbed the new oil system in with the remote filter mount and hooked up the oil cooler. Will be running a oil temp sensor in the filter block.
Looking so much better now!
April 19, 2016
April 10, 2016
April 9, 2016
The initial plan was to change as little as possible in the head and reduce the amount of work required. Then, while disassembling the engine, the cause of the low compression in one of the cylinders was found to be a valve not seating properly. So the valves had to be reseated and this was all done by my local engine shop.
After thinking about it hard I also decided to change cams so I would only need to remap the engine once and not go back once I changed them.
The challenge with the head has been caused by the new parts and work carried out. The reseated valves sit higher into the head which means that smaller shims will be required, and additionally the clearance for the new Tomei cams needs to be higher as well (from 0.025mm on OE to 0.15mm, according to Tomei). This has meant that I need to run quite small shims, much smaller than is available by Nissan. Ideally the seats should have been replaced on a high mileage engine such as this one.
The first challenge was actually measuring the shim height required when an undersized shim of that size doesn’t exist to measure the clearance. So I decided to assemble the rockers onto the valves with no shims at all, but the rockers had to actually be modified to clear the spring retainer, as shown:
I could then assemble all the valvetrain and measure the clearances with a feeler gauge. An additional problem was the hydraulic lifters; I had purged them all of air before installing so they were rock hard, but when I installed the cams and rotated them to check the clearance between the various lobes, the high lift of the cams seems to have pressed some oil out and they went soft, making an accurate clearance measurement more difficult. I am not sure if they are supposed to behave like but I rebled them when I put the new shims in.
Modifying the shims was made easy with the use of the lathe. At work they had some great kit which allowed me to grab onto a very small edge of the shim and machine it down to as thin as 0.69mm.
The additional problem was the lowered preload of the valves; I checked the spring stiffness limits and compared this to the reduced preload and found that I am cutting it fine. If my springs were midway between the standard limits then my reduced preload will still yield a force higher than the lower limit, but I haven’t measured the stiffness of the springs so that is a bit of an unknown. Many lessons learnt.
With the new shims in the clearances are pretty close, maximum of 0.30mm with a target of 0.20mm. Hopefully after a bit of running the reseated valves will settle and close that up a little.
Also installed the Rocker Arm Stoppers from Apex Performance.
April 4, 2016
Tomei 256 Poncams arrived so I was able to finish off the internals. I still need to do the valve clearances, which I am currently sorting out now, but I’ll cover that in a more detailed post due to the issues I faced.
Finished off the bottom end with the various baffles and sumps. If I drop anything now its going to be more tricky to get out!
XS Power tubular manifold and a new Garrett GT2871R turbo, all plumbed with braided turbo lines. The lines were actually one of the first things I changed on the car after the original hard lines broke. I think they’re plumbed correctly but people run then in either direction, which I don’t think it matters.
The vacuum line from the valve cover is pretty much touching the manifold, which I am going to have to sort out somehow.
Intake manifold and water lines also went in. As I’m running the oil filter sandwich plate I no longer have the oil to water heat exchanger, so I’ve had to reroute lines around to omit it.
Once the shims are made and back in I’ll be taking the engine off the stand and start to put the clutch and transmission back on and hopefully the engine will be back in soon!